Cubism has made appearances on the fashion world. Cubism symbolizes a break with the stereotypes of art that remain until the time of its creation in the early years of the twentieth century. This artistic movement adds a new prism to represent on canvas what surrounds us. In itself, this is to synthesize the straight geometric shapes, usually squares and rectangles. It can speak of Cubism in general, but the artistic movement of this branch has had more impact on fashion is the Neoplasticism (De Stijl), which arises in 1917. As we have commented before, Mondrian is represented in different stuffs, but now I’m going to talk about his relevance on fashion in a more extended way.
Specifically, what catches my attention is the representation of the works of Mondrian in tissues. The artist Piet Mondrian created a non-subjective art, but analytical internal structure of reality, mostly creating geometric abstractions. It can be said that his intention was to strip things of the transient and circumstantial, leaving only the form (lines) and color to reach its essence. He intended to create an artistic language of universal validity.
Designers of today as Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, Christian Louboutin and Matthew Williamson have seen in Mondrian his muse to make their fashion lines. Agatha Ruiz de la Prada applies Mondrian paintings to her designs with a motley mix of colors her style, but without leaving behind the structural lines, which conform squares.
Christian Louboutin, a famous French fashion designer women’s footwear, created a perfect representation of the painting Yellow, red, black and blue in a pair of shoes, they become very famous and trendy. The designer plays with the continuity of the lines on the straps that hold the foot to the sole of the shoe, being the heel and sole part of the framework of lines.
Fashion houses, like the italian Costume National and The Rodnik Band have also represented Mondrian in their lines. The latter was founded by Philip Colbert, a creative musician, artist and designer that combines this three scopes under one label, searching the term ‘fashion’ in it. The Rodnik Band creates designs inspired in Mondrian but with a much more pop and casual appearance, displacing fill colors from the linear structures.
Yves Saint Laurent was a designer who in 1961 captured the famous pictures of Mondrian on his dresses exactly or with slight variations in the rigid forms and with the same colors (red, yellow, black, white and blue). It could say that this was a tribute more than a work developed by Yves Saint Laurent, as he didn’t add his own decorative elements.
Prada signature followed his example and created a similar line but with an oldschool style. The designer Sarah Schofield did what Yves Sain Laurent, but with feminine swimwear. I consider that the spanish designer Ana Locking was who most own work apported to her designs even basing its in Mondrian. She knew how to capture the essence of the painter in their dresses and suits, but varying in different forms, such as peaks and straight lines that are not strictly cubes. We can see this in his autumn-winter collection 2011/12.
Ana Locking, autum-winter collection 2011/2012
– Artículo escrito por Carolina Moya